• Universal Laser Systems / ULS-25E

• 25 Watts
• Work Area: 24” x 12”

• Touchy, random lines seem to cut horizontally (2/17/13, see Dennis D.)

• Current: East Room, soon to be Laser Cutter Room, Lenox
  
• Previous: Workshop, Chase

• Jason Hilleshiem

• 11/08/2011 - Arrived at Makerspace
  
• 12/31/2012 - Moved to Lenox

• http://www.engraversnetwork.com/support/pdf/ULS25%20Manual.pdf

Please read about the ventilation system.

The Laser Cutter is expensive and dangerous. Try not to leave it unattended. Things can start on fire.

Some jobs take a long time to run. If you need to run to the bathroom or something, find someone to watch it for you.

You can etch/cut various materials. Cut: paper, acrylic, plastic. Etch: wood, acrylic, plastic, etc. (For more in-depth info, see the manual.)

Some great info from Lady Ada: http://www.ladyada.net/library/laser/

A full tutorial is in progress: Laser Cutter HOW TO

A rough tutorial on Using DraftSight with the Laser Cutter.

Metrix Create:Space has an interesting page detailing how they let people use their laser cutter: http://wiki.metrixcreatespace.com/laser-cutter

• Great reference: http://milwaukeemakerspace.org/2012/05/gradient-reference-for-the-25-watt-laser-cutter/
• We'll eventually collect all the forms people have filled out when using the machine and document them here
• Be sure to focus the beam using the 2” tall wood block stored just inside the lid of the machine
• The black knob to the right inside the lid raises and lowers the table
• Try not to bump the machine while it is running, the magnetic safeties are sensitive and will kill the laser if it thinks the lid is open

• 1/4” thick acrylic: 80% power, 2% speed, 2 passes for full cut through
• ABS: ?
• Protective paper backings have a tendency to flame up

• Cheap glassware: 30% power, 80% speed, 2-3 passes to etch
• Stemware: ?
• Crystal: ?
• Mirror: Yes, we've etched a mirror! The front glass, as well as the back silver coating.
• Too great a power or too slow a speed may cause cracks from overheating

• Cardboard: ?
• Construction paper: Works well. You can etch or cut. Start with high speeds to get a feel for it first. — Pete 2012/03/22 13:01
• Onion skin: ?

• Great reference: http://milwaukeemakerspace.org/2012/05/gradient-reference-for-the-25-watt-laser-cutter/
• Baltic Birch: 3mm Baltic Birch plywood works well. For cutting you can use 100% power and 3.2% speed, and then 4 to 5 passes should cut through it.
  • (If you need a 12”x12” sheet ask Pete.)
• Pine: ?
• Medium-density fiberboard (MDF): ?
• Plywood: Terrible. We've tried 1/4” plywood, and after 20+ passes it doesn't cut through. Use Baltic Birch.
• Most likely to burn
• Too great a power or too slow a speed may cause smoke
• Exhaust air is pulled across the work surface toward the back of the machine and could stain your material, speeds over 3.2% may help prevent this, but it may mean more passes to cut through. — Pete 2012/03/22 13:03

• Aluminum: ?
• Anodized metal: I've been told the laser can etch (but not cut) anodized metal, but I've had no luck with brass. Ben did his coffee mug though. I do want to try the technique where you paint the metal black and then etch that off, so the metal shows through. — Pete 2012/03/22 13:00

• Stamp Rubber: See here. We should order some of this.
• Wait… see here! Rubber Stamps