• most glaze is safe to touch but minimization of contact is ideal
• if you have open cuts or scraps on hands it is not advised to glaze
• don't ingest it, it might or might not send you to the hospital
• none of the ingredients are volatile so “sniffing the glaze” does nothing
• the “red colored” glazes in the buckets generally have a lot of red iron oxide (up to 15%!) which is really good at staining… everything.

1. If your piece is dirty, you need to wash it. Dust and oil will affect glaze adhesion.
2. If you want to apply Wax or tape, this is the time to do so.
3. Double bucket wash system. 1 bucket is for “clean” water, the 2nd is for “dirty” water when wiping down glaze spills or wiping off the bottom of the piece.
4. Mixing glazes
   • chose the appropriate glaze mixing stick for each bucket, Small vs Large,
   • drill speed set to 1 (1 or 2 speed adjustment on top of drill), mud mixer set to max
   • mix for at least 3 minutes
   • check consistency for chunks or unincorporated materials.
   • if something “feels” wrong, chances are there is something wrong.

• You can use your hand or tongs
• hold in a position to prevent drips from running down the piece until it drys

• There are multiple mop brushes to use to brush on glaze. generally 2-3 “coats” equal 1 dip of a glaze.
• pre-wetting the piece under a sink will help brushing and slow down glaze drying / water absorption

• We have multiple pitchers/measuring cups to help you pour glaze onto your piece
• catch the glaze that drips off either back in the glaze bucket or in another vessel

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• Pour excess glaze back into the buckets
• wash all brushes, mixers, and cups in the sinks in the wet clay area and return them to storage immediately
• wipe down all surfaces with a clean sponge
• close all buckets 2 finger tight(it should take a thumb and index to tighten them not two hands)
• put all the buckets away, either on their shelf or back under the table